Notes from Madrid - Tapas bars, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife in Madrid » Travel tips http://www.notesfrommadrid.com A new look at the city of Madrid. Photos, news, podcasts, Madrid secrets, videos, bars - a real insider's guide. Thu, 21 May 2009 07:29:17 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 en hourly 1 Las Ventas http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/06/26/las-ventas/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/06/26/las-ventas/#comments Thu, 26 Jun 2008 10:04:17 +0000 Marina Diez http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/06/26/las-ventas/ ventas250.jpgDespite being completely against bull fighting I have to admit that Las Ventas bullring is an impressive construction. Luckily it has other uses apart from the obvious one.

For example, from June through October it is used as a pop & rock concert venue, and in my opinion it is one of the best places to listen to live music in Madrid.

It is big enough to hold several thousand people (23,798 seated, to be precise) yet being completely round makes it much more compact and atmospheric than any stadium that I’ve been to for a concert. I’ve been lucky enough to see international bands there like Radiohead, and Spanish artists like Joaquin Sabina. Definitely worth checking out if you see one of your favourite bands on the list for this unique venue.

Metro: Ventas Address: C/Alcalá, 237. See map below:


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El Rastro http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/06/19/el-rastro/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/06/19/el-rastro/#comments Thu, 19 Jun 2008 09:49:56 +0000 Marina Diez http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/06/19/el-rastro/ organillorastro.jpgThis famous Sunday morning flea market, located next to La Latina, one of the oldest quarters of Madrid, has everything from clothes, bags and other paraphernalia, to the funny stalls dedicated to just one single thing: there is one, for example, that sells nothing but various shapes and sizes of elastic bands!

One specific side street is dedicated to pets, with real pet shops on either side of the road, and a few people outside selling their own puppies out of cardboard boxes and sports bags. The main street, c/ Ribera de Curtidores, is the place to head to if you’d like to see antique shops in Madrid, most of which open every day of the week.

There are two extra reasons for visiting the Rastro on a Sunday morning: the first is the live music, from the organ grinder playing Chotis, a popular music and dance from Madrid, to a complete Jazz band if you’re lucky.

The second reason is food: finish your Rastro visit with either the traditional bocadillo de calamares, a battered squid baguette sold in one of the many bars lining the main Rastro strip, or head towards the atmospheric heart of La Latina for lunch in one of the many tapas bars around Plaza de la Cebada and Cava Baja.

TIPS: Go early, from 9:30 to 10:30 a.m., to avoid the masses. Be careful with your wallet, camera and other possessions, as this is a favourite spot for pickpockets.

Metro: La Latina / Tirso de Molina. The Rastro is on Calle Ribera de Curtidores and surrounds. See map below:


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10 (or more!) Things to Do During a Weekend in Madrid http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/04/21/10-or-more-things-to-do-during-a-weekend-in-madrid/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/04/21/10-or-more-things-to-do-during-a-weekend-in-madrid/#comments Mon, 21 Apr 2008 06:14:39 +0000 ben http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/04/21/10-or-more-things-to-do-during-a-weekend-in-madrid/ This post originally appeared on our sister site notesfromspain.com.

Recommendations for 10 things to do in Madrid

1. The Do or Die Arty No-Brainer
Visit at least one of the big three art museums, the Prado, the Reina Sofia or the Thyssen. If in doubt pick the Reina Sofia and see Guernica.

2. Tapas Grazing
Start on Cava Baja, stopping at will on this bar-packed street, then head into the depths of La Latina for more.

3. Something Different
Take a trip on the Teleférico, out into the depths of the Casa de Campo.

4. A Walk
Go to Plaza de la Villa and take one of the small alleys on the left-hand side or at the back of the square. Wander aimlessly, follow your nose, change course at will, check out the churches – it’s the best way to see Madrid de los Austrias, the ancient city centre.

5. Everyone misses
Malasaña – a really charming barrio centered around Plaza Dos de Mayo. Check out the lovely tiled shop fronts, ignore the graffiti, and have a drink at Manuela Café, on Calle San Vicente Ferrer 29.

6. A Park
The Retiro: for people-watching, romance, rowing, and relative peace and quiet.

7. A Shop
Antigua Casa Talavera, an incredible ceramics shop on Calle Isabel la Católica, 2.

8. A trip out of the city
El Escorial or Toledo. It’s a toss up as to which is best. If you really can’t decide, try Chinchón instead.

9. A reasonable restaurant
Taberna Miranda, at Plaza del Conde Miranda, 4, is local, cheap, has amazing food, and is generally very Spanish. Our favourite in Madrid. Arrive 9ish at weekends if you don’t have a reservation. Otherwise do snacks at the lively bar.

10. Hidden Culture
El Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, at Plaza de las Descalzas Reales, 3. A closed order of nuns still live in the private quarters of this monastery. Amazing treasures lie within.

10+1. Last thing at night
Ward off a hangover with chocolate con churros at Chocolatería San Ginés, on Pasadizo de San Ginés. Things liven up after 3 a.m., when locals gather to dip thick battery churros sticks into gloopy hot chocolate.

Add more Madrid recommendations in the comments below!

See map below for places mentioned above:


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To See: Palacio Real, To Avoid: Palacio Real Guided Tour http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/04/09/to-see-palacio-real-to-avoid-palacio-real-guided-tour/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/04/09/to-see-palacio-real-to-avoid-palacio-real-guided-tour/#comments Wed, 09 Apr 2008 08:00:27 +0000 Amy Menchhofer http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/04/09/to-see-palacio-real-to-avoid-palacio-real-guided-tour/ Palacio Real

Para gustos hay colores.” This common Spanish phrase, meaning more or less that there are as many preferences as there are colors, sums up the state of affairs when discussing the famous Palacio Real in Madrid.

The royal palace is clearly a gem among the city’s numerous historical spots. But, when it comes to the tour of the Palacio, I see red. As in a big red X. Avoid it. Don’t be swept away by the romantic idea of a grandiose palace with sweeping staircases, royal jewels, and hidden mysteries. Not that they don’t exist, but you aren’t likely to hear any details on the standard, very run-of-the-mill tour. This is no Tower of London. And these are no Beefeaters. The unenthusiastic guides barely manage to provide an adequate introduction to the numerous clocks, mirrors, and chandeliers throughout the palace. And the sheer number of rooms visited (and the time spent describing said clocks) can put you in a trance.

Although the guided tour will set you back just 2€ more than the unguided admission, I recommend saving those euros for a caña. Wandering through the palace on your own allows you the time to gaze out the windows, bypass the slow-moving tour groups, and dedicate more time to the highlights of the palace including the throne room and the numerous masterpieces by some of the Spanish greats. And if you find yourself craving more information on a particular room, you can always slyly dawdle around one of the groups.

One must-see on your palace visit is the exterior. The best parts of the compound are the incredible palace façade and the extensive Sabatini gardens to the north. Admission for the gardens is free and there you can wander through the greenery, indulging yourself in the romantic fantasies that went unfulfilled during the tour.

(Ed. note: Other highlights are the room with the quintet of Stradivarius stringed instruments, the royal armory, and the gorgeous Campo del Moro, the park below the western façade of the palace.)

Metro: Ópera Address: Calle Bailén at the Plaza de Oriente Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30-17:00 (winter), 9:00-18:00 (summer); Sundays 9:00-14:00 (winter) and 9:00-15:00 (summer).

Entrance: Palace – 10€ with tour, 8€ without, 6€ reduced (youth, student, 65+, etc.); Royal armory – 3.40€ standard, 2.50€ reduced.

Changing of the guard: Wednesdays 11am-2pm on the half hour (foot) and hour (horse guard), the first Wednesday of the month is the full changing of the guard ceremony.

See map below:


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What is a “Menú del Día”? http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/03/24/what-is-a-menu-del-dia/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/03/24/what-is-a-menu-del-dia/#comments Mon, 24 Mar 2008 08:00:22 +0000 Marina Diez http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2008/03/24/what-is-a-menu-del-dia/ Menú del DíaIt’s common for Spanish workers to take a lunch break in the middle of their working day. The usual thing is to go out to a restaurant and have a menú del día, menu of the day. This set lunch consists of a starter, a second course, and a dessert, with several options for each, at a fair price — from 9 euros depending on the restaurant. The price also includes bread and a drink — water, soft drinks, wine or beer. You’ll find menus del día in a good portion of Spanish restaurants from Monday to Friday at lunch time — between about 1 pm and 3.30 pm. Check near the door of the restaurant or on a board outside for options for that particular day.

There are several dishes which are likely to be found in a menú del día on a particular day. For example, on Thursday paella is usually one of the options, and in Madrid, Tuesday is the day to have cocido (hearty chickpea and meat stew).

There are several urban legends as to why Thursdays are the official paella day. One is that Franco used to go hunting on Thursdays, and when he did, he liked to eat paella. As his hunting destination was always unknown, every restaurant in the country had to be prepared in case he appeared and demanded his favourite food. Others say that since maids used to have Thursdays off, they would leave the first step of the paella recipe, el sofrito (everything but the rice!), cooked on Wednesday night, ready for the lady of the house to add the rice in time for Thursday lunch.

So, venture out into the city and let us know what your favorite menú is! Here are some of our favorites to get you started.

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What is the weather like in Madrid? http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/12/12/what-is-the-weather-like-in-madrid/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/12/12/what-is-the-weather-like-in-madrid/#comments Wed, 12 Dec 2007 07:02:02 +0000 Faye Davies http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/12/12/whats-the-weather-like-in-madrid/ Another sunny day...

When people ask if I like living in Madrid, I say, ‘No one ever goes to bed and the sky’s always blue. What do you think?’ The former observation is a slight exaggeration (Sunday nights are quiet); but the latter is pretty much true.

Sun doesn’t always equate to heat, however. At the time of writing (early December) we’ve hardly seen a cloud for weeks, but the days are crisp (around 16ºC/61ºF), and the nights are positively bracing (average lows of 3ºC/37ºF). Snow will soon be gracing the nearby mountains of the Sierra, and may touch the city once or twice too.

Madrid is on the same line of latitude as New York, and dwellers of that city won’t be surprised to hear that the chilliness of winter here is balanced by the scorching heat of summer. In July and August temperatures sit stubbornly around 30º(86º), which can prove uncomfortable for many.

At the end of the day though, this is Europe; and outside the peaks of summer and winter, just about anything can happen. It does rain (typically in April and November), and seasonal bleeding isn’t uncommon – so bring your coat in June, and bikini in March.

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Highlights and Tips from a Semestre Studying in Madrid http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/12/11/highlights-and-tips-from-a-semestre-studying-in-madrid/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/12/11/highlights-and-tips-from-a-semestre-studying-in-madrid/#comments Tue, 11 Dec 2007 14:45:20 +0000 Michael Loiacono http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/12/11/highlights-and-tips-from-a-semestre-studying-in-madrid/ MikeMichael Loiacono has spent the last 4 months studying at Syracuse Universtiy in Madrid as part of a student exchange program. He’s also been an invaluable intern, helping us out with Notes from Madrid and our other sites. Over at Notesfromspain.com he gives us the rundown on why you should definitely (definitely!) try some time abroad for yourselves, and here are some of the top tips he’s picked up for Madrid:

Madrid is located in the center of Spain. This allows a great deal of ease for great little day trips to outside towns such as Segovia, El Escorial, Aranjuez, and of course Toledo. But, even more it makes traveling to other bigger cities in Spain very doable, Barcelona, Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla are all musts and all within a half day’s travel.

I won’t spend much time doling out advice on which bars to go to or which clubs… the fun part is finding them for yourself. However, one of Madrid’s not so hidden but fantastic treasures is the Retiro Park. On warmer days relaxing, eating, reading or evening napping in the park is phenomenal. Who needs beaches anyways?

Madrid is a much more compact city than people expect. Although the Metro is extremely easy, many times it is not any quicker than walking. I strongly encourage you to try and walk places. Maps can be deceiving because they make the city appear much larger than it is. Therefore, I would recommend to bring a good pair of walking shoes. Walking places is a great way to not only see and get a feel for the city, but it’s usually no more time consuming than the buses or Metro.

Having said my bit about walking, there are undoubtedly times when you won’t walk. It happens. And for those times you do spend on the metro, a book is a great way to pass time. Pick a few up before you come over. Trust me, you will not regret it.

USE THE BUSES! Sure the Madrid metro map may be a bit easier to follow and has pretty colored lines. But the buses run all night, allow you to actually see the city, and can save you a great deal of money. Take a minute and try them, in truth they aren’t that difficult.

Finally, I could not write a highlights from Madrid post without a shout out to the nightlife here. I won’t elaborate, but I had always thought that New York City was the city that never sleeps: Madrid easily gives New York City a run for its money!

Don’t forget to check out Michael’s post on the good life of a student abroad at Notes from Spain.

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What Shoes Should I Wear in Madrid? http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/23/what-shoes-should-i-wear-in-madrid/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/23/what-shoes-should-i-wear-in-madrid/#comments Fri, 23 Nov 2007 08:47:58 +0000 Amy Menchhofer http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/23/what-shoes-should-i-wear-in-madrid/ Shoes for Madrid!

Accessories are an important part of the Spanish wardrobe and shoes are at the top of the list. But the great question looms – comfort or style? Follow these tips and you’ll find the perfect mix to ensure that no one will think you’re a tourist.

1. Boots – Not just for the young and sexy; you’ll see boots on everyone from teenagers to abuelas. Knee-high boots are one of the most versatile footwear options to consider. They easily go from the office to a night out and instantly dress up your outfit. Love boots but don’t want to forfeit the comfort? Pull on a pair of flat boots over your jeans or pants and you’re ready for shopping with the girls or a casual date.

2. Flats – As elsewhere, the ballet flat rules the world of slip-on comfort and style. Look for unique fabrics like camouflage, polka dots, and plaid, or interesting details like bows, buttons, and straps to give a special something to the shoe. You’ll conveniently find these shoes for sale all over the place – in the street markets, cheap “Chinese” stores, and all the clothing shops – chain and otherwise.

3. Heels – Round toes or pointy, high heels or kitten, the key is in the details. Look for shoes that have sexy details like buckles, bows, a hot fabric, or a bright color. Summer dates call for heels as well but of the strappy sandal persuasion; just but don’t go too delicate or formal.

4. Sneakers – For an afternoon in the park or one spent sight-seeing, slip on a pair of “athletic” shoes. Just make sure they’re Euro-stylish and don’t look like they belong at the gym. Take your pick among brands like Diesel, Puma, Converse, or Camper to fit in.

5. Men’s Shoes – For the guys out there the same general idea applies – go for a “stylish” set of sneakers for your everyday duds. Pick a classic shoe that sports a modern shape and stitching to go easily from the office to the clubs. Avoid clunkiness at all costs.

With these suggestions you’ll get the perfectly-stocked shoe arsenal and you’ll be ready for everything Madrid can throw at you. At least from the ankle down.

Related reading: How to avoid looking like a tourist in Madrid

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What are Tapas? Where is the best place for Tapas in Madrid? http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/14/what-are-tapas-where-is-the-best-place-for-tapas-in-madrid/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/14/what-are-tapas-where-is-the-best-place-for-tapas-in-madrid/#comments Wed, 14 Nov 2007 09:35:35 +0000 Marina Diez http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/14/what-are-tapas-where-is-the-best-place-for-tapas-in-madrid/ Tapas in Madrid

A tapa is a little bit of food to have with your drink. There are several stories about the origin of tapas, but in my opinion, the main objective was clearly to avoid people getting too drunk while drinking wine or beer. This little bit of food can be anything from a small, hot plate of garlic mushrooms or mussels, to a couple of slices of cheese or ham with bread, or some olives.

Where is the best place to eat Tapas in Madrid?

Right, there are two types of bars: the ones that serve a free tapa each time you order a drink, like El Tigre, and the ones that don’t.

So, lets say it’s the first time that my friends and I drop by a certain bar. We’ll only order drinks first, and wait to see if a free tapa comes along. If it doesn’t, then we’ll order one or two tapas from the menu, or a couple of raciones (a larger plateful of the same food), to share between all of us. Then, when we have all finished our food and drinks, we’ll make a move on to the next bar and repeat the operation all over again.

This process usually goes on until we are all full up of good food and delicious wine. This idea of tapas-hunting from bar to bar is what is known in Spanish as Ir de Tapas. A great area for this is La Latina, with La Taberna del Almendro, Toma Jamón, and one of our favourites, La Taberna Miranda, being great places to start. But of course you can ir de tapas in other areas of Madrid, like around Plaza de Santa Ana, Chueca, or even in your local neighbourhood.

For more on the origin of tapas and a trip to a couple of great tapas bars in Madrid, check out this Cuisine from Spain tapas podcast, and the Notes from Spain Tapas of the Week.

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How to avoid looking like a tourist in Madrid http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/13/how-to-avoid-looking-like-a-tourist-in-madrid/ http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/13/how-to-avoid-looking-like-a-tourist-in-madrid/#comments Tue, 13 Nov 2007 09:00:45 +0000 Julie Espinosa http://www.notesfrommadrid.com/2007/11/13/how-to-avoid-looking-like-a-tourist-in-madrid/ What to wear... or not!

To avoid obviously looking like a tourist, choose a sleek bag over a fanny pack or backpack (men may opt to carry man-purses). Don’t ever wear socks with sandals or white socks, period.

To really blend in, you’d do well to emulate current trends (as filtered down from the annual Cibeles fashion week) by checking out stores like Zara, H&M, Mango, Sfera and Pull and Bear. To score cheap duds from Zara, scour their outlet, Lefties (Calle de las Carretas, 10, Metro: Sol). Right now, tailored bermuda shorts or the shirt-dress with stockings look is popular, but it probably won’t be next season.

In general, the look about Madrid is mostly classy and rarely ostentatious. No matter what your age, you would do well to dress up for going out at night, when madrileños like to strut their stuff with a more sophisticated “European” look, which roughly translates to a darker palette and dressier footwear.

But by no means does “European” exclude jeans; today’s under-40 crowd will wear jeans almost anywhere. For more mature travelers, a matching pant-suit would give women good mileage and khaki slacks would prove versatile for men.

Accessory tip: All women wear scarves or shawls in Madrid, from roughly September through April. Older, traditional madrileñas will drape an embroidered shawl around their shoulders to ward off a chill, whereas college-aged women tie pashmina-type scarves—available in practically any color or pattern—around their necks.

Related reading: What Shoes Should I Wear in Madrid?

Info: Zara’s outlet, Lefties, is at Calle de las Carretas, 10, Metro: Sol (See map below):


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