The Puerta del Sol can be one of the most avoidable places in Madrid—what with its tourists, ear-splitting construction racket and general bustle. Steer clear of the Puerta del Sol itself and the streets north, between Sol and Gran Vía, which are teeming with commercial glut—from souvenir shops to seedy sex shops.

Luckily, other streets close to Sol and the lively Plaza de Santa Ana conceal many treasures, transporting you far away from the likes of El Corte Inglés, Mickey and other snares.

For one, there are dozens of tapas bars. I recommend gambas at La Casa del Abuelo (C/ Goya, 57; C/ Núñez de Arce, 5) , patatas bravas at Las Bravas (C/ Álvarez Gato, 3; Pasaje Matheu, 5; C/ de la Cruz, 14 ; C/ Espoz y Mina, 13), and tostas at La Malaspina (C/ Cádiz, 9) , but those are just starting points. Good bars are littered on and around the streets Calle de Espoz y Mina and Calle de la Cruz. Explore and experiment!

Then there’s the plethora of nearby authentic, late-night flamenco actuaciones (shows) in intimate bars—an alternative to the pricier, fancier tablao experience. The music and dance starts after 11 or 12 p.m. on certain nights of the week at El Callejón de Madrid (C/ Manuel Fernández y González, 5) , El Burladero (C/ Echegaray, 5), España Cañí (Plaza del Ángel, 14) and Cardamomo (C/ Echegaray, 15) .

Round off a night well spent in the Sol/Santa Ana area by having chocolate con churros at nearby Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo San Ginés, 5), open all night long.

For directions to the places mentioned above, see map below:

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Chocolate con churros is a quintessential Madrid treat, and a serving of both will usually only cost you around 3 or 4 Euros. This breakfast/late-night treat is served at cafeterías, chocolaterías and churrerías throughout the city.

Thick and pudding-like, Spain’s chocolate is best enjoyed with churro sticks, whose fried ridges are engineered for dunking. Porras are thicker than churros, but both taste best with chocolate since the dough is not very sweet. If you crave the Mexican-style sugared churros, there’s the stand outside of the Atocha train station (6 will cost you 2.50). They serve other fried sweets — like chocolate cream-filled churros — none of which I’d recommend if you’re diabetic or watching your waistline.

I like my churros warm and my chocolate on the bittersweet side. The classic Chocolatería San Ginés (which I visited twice last week) is a popular destination not only for taste but also for its ambiance, location and hours (open all night long). There’s nothing like chocolate and churros to end a night on the town.

Where do you go for this sweet treat? Which churrería, chocolatería or cafetería is your favorite destination?

Churrería Velázquez Groumet – Metro: Atocha. Outside Atocha Station, opposite Calle Alfonso XII
Chocolatería San Ginés – Metro: Sol, Opera. Pasadizo San Ginés 5. See map below:

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La Mallorquina bakery is Madrid’s sweet-tooth mecca. With its aromas wafting about the Puerta del Sol, this pastelería has been a local and tourist favorite since 1894. Its name derives from the original Mallorcan owner, and it’s not the only contending confectionery with a regional name; try the nearby El Riojano, est. 1855, for traditional cookies in an ornate tearoom.

La Mallorquina boasts:

1. Affordable prices (most pastries 1-1.50€ each)
2. No-frills atmosphere
3. Central location
4. Irresistible fresh-from-the-oven sweets!

Of the many tempting treats, my favorite are the napolitanas de chocolate — I enjoyed my first one so much that it wasn’t until arriving home an hour later that I realized the creamy chocolate center was smeared all over my chin. Then there are palmeras, rosquillas, madrileños and, most decadent of all, trufas de chocolate. Partake with coffee or hot chocolate shoulder-to-shoulder at the bustling bar or request an assortment “para llevar” (for take-away). Upstairs you may indulge unhurried at a table, sometimes even with a window view, but ¡ojo! – prices upstairs are higher than below.

Metro: Sol. La Mallorquina: C/ Mayor, 2. El Riojano: C/ Mayor, 10. See map below:

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Tucked away in a very narrow street in the heart of old Madrid (Calle de la Paz, 4 – map), this authentic Castillian bar doesn’t seem to have changed at all in the last 50 years. It’s speciality is a delicious sweet wine and a dessert known as “Torrijas” which, although usually only on sale in Pastelarias at Easter, can be found at this bar all year round. Originally meant as an energy-boosting meat substitute over Easter and Lent, the ingredients of “Torrijas de leche” are really basic: hard bread is usually soaked in cinnamon and lemon-scented milk until the bread goes soft, before it is coated with beaten egg and deep fried in olive oil. Finally a bit of icing sugar is sprinkled on top. La Casa de las Torrijas specialises in the less-common, but no less delicious, “Wine Torrijas”.