While sometimes it may seem that the Retiro is the only park in the city center, tourists in Madrid often overlook an equally enjoyable and certainly less crowded green area. Lining the city’s western edge from near Plaza de España to Moncloa, the hilly Parque del Oeste has plenty of trails to let you lose yourself a little without leaving the center of the city. Don’t miss these highlights:

1. Just northwest of Plaza de España, you’ll find the Templo de Debod, Spain’s only Egyptian temple. It’s especially lovely at sunset.

2. Walk north from the temple and you’ll reach the Teleférico, a cable car that will whisk you away to Madrid’s largest green space, the Casa de Campo. On the way, enjoy the views of the Palacio Real, La Almudena, and San Francisco El Grande.

3. Downhill from the Teleférico, you’ll find the wonderful rosaleda (rose garden), renowned for its annual international rose competition. The roses reach their peak around mid-May, when it’s truly a sensory delight.

4. If you’re getting tired of all the activity, head back uphill to the Paseo de Pintor Rosales. This tree-lined street that borders the park is full of terrazas, though they’re not cheap.

5. Enjoy walking along the paths north of the rosaleda. For a good workout, climb the hill back up to Moncloa. Picnicking is highly recommended in the warmer months.

Check out the satellite map below to see all of these places:

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Having grown up in the the green American state of Maryland, I can’t say I consider Madrid to be “green.” Still, there are a few green oases where you can escape from the stone and smoke of the city.

1. Atocha rainforest: A great place to relax, especially during cold winter months, the old Atocha train station has been converted into a humid indoor rainforest. (Metro: Atocha)

2. El Retiro/Botanical Gardens: The Retiro park is located right in the city center, making it a convenient outdoor getaway. The royal botanical gardens are next door, and cost 2€ to enter. (Metro: Retiro)

3. El Capricho: The El Capricho park features sculpture and birds—perfect for amateur photographers or bird-watchers. (Metro: El Capricho)

4. Palacio Real gardens (Jardines de Sabatini): Beside the royal palace, the royal gardens are well manicured and tend to be filled with newlyweds and wedding photographers on warm, sunny days. If you enter the adjacent Casa de Campo, be on guard and don’t go in alone or after dark. (Metro: Opera)

5. Aranjuez gardens: Nature becomes much more common outside Madrid proper, including to the south in Aranjuez. Visit the UNESCO palace, bring along your mp3 player and listen to the lush Spanish guitar suite, “Concierto de Aranjuez,” inspired by its fountains and labyrinthine gardens. (Accessible by regional Cercanías trains from Atocha station)

See the first four marked out on the map below:

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On everyone’s list of must-sees in Madrid is El Parque del Buen Retiro. But when should you visit? A leisurely stroll through the Retiro on a Tuesday morning is a completely different experience than joining the masses on a Sunday afternoon.

Wander through the park on a weekday morning and you’ll likely find yourself alone more often than not. The terrace bars are closed, the chocolate-dealers are absent from the park entrances, your only company will be cyclists and joggers, and you can even find a swing on a deserted playground to pretend you’re a kid again. And you might even want to leave your iPod at home. The sounds of nature and even the occasional complete silence are a treat that will make you forget you’re at the heart of a city of 4 million.

Stop by on a Sunday and you’ll have to watch where you walk so as not to bump into someone. Particularly popular with young families, you’ll dodge as many wagons and tricycles as you do palm-reading gypsies. Despite the crowds, the ambience is a unique one filled with puppet shows, portrait artists, jewelry stalls, and fortune tellers. And should you be so inclined you can park yourself at one of the many terraces and get an ice cream, caña, or coffee – that is, if you can find a seat. Also of note: the Retiro is often host to various special events such as Cibeles Fashion Week, the annual book fair, and last weekend’s Bike Fest. On such occasions the influx of visitors is even greater than on your typical Sunday.

Crowded and festive? Quiet and calming? Which face of the park do you prefer?