Cocido is a very filling stew, especially recommended for cold winter days, or for when you have been toiling away in the open air and need to get some of your energies back.

It is usually served in two stages. The first consists of a broth, straight from a large pan where all the stew’s meat has been slowly simmering all morning. The second course is usually presented in a tray placed in the middle of the table containing chickpeas, cabagge, potato, carrot, and all the meat: beef, chicken, ham, chorizo and sometimes morcilla (black pudding).

In the late forties and most of the fifties, when Spain was quite poor, this dish was served in many houses in Madrid six days a week. The exception was Sundays, when something special, like roast chicken, would be prepared.

Where can I have cocido?

• In Madrid, it’s very common to find cocido on Tuesday’s menú del día. It usually appears as two dishes on the menu: the soup as sopa de cocido, and the rest as segundo de cocido.

• Taberna Daniela: Metro: Goya, Velázquez, Príncipe de Vergara Address: C/ General Pardiñas, 21 Phone: 91 575 23 29 Hours: Daily 12-17:30 and 20:00-24:00 (to 1:00 Fridays and Saturdays).

See map below for location:

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When it’s cold in Madrid, nothing revives you like a good Fabada, the thick Asturian bean stew with chorizo, ham and morcilla (black pudding). Here are my three favourite Asturian restaurants to sample a great Fabada, as well as other Asturian delights:

Casa Portal:
This is a friendly and traditional restaurant, not far from the Retiro park. For an informal meal or great tapas, the tables located near the bar are fine. For a relaxed full lunch head further inside to the dinning area located beyond the end of the bar. As well as the Fabada, try the assorted Asturian Cheese plate, croquetas made of vegtables or a strong blue cheese called Cabrales, and the Asturian Omelette with white tuna, onion and tomato.

Metro: Ibiza, Goya, O’Donell Address: C/ Doctor Castelo, 26 Phone: 91 574 2026 Opening hours: 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-23:30. Closed Sunday night and all day Monday.

Casa Hortensia:
Formely located in a tiny restaurant in Lavapies, Casa Hortensia recently moved to a much bigger location on the second floor of the “Centro Asturiano” building just off Calle Fuencarral. They have two sittings for lunch, at 1:30 and 3 pm, and it’s essential to book. It’s really important to note that one portion of Fabada easily feeds two, so one Fabada, a Salad and another starter would be a great choice for two people – the same applies to Casa Portal.

Metro: Tribunal, Chueca Address: C/ Farmacia, 2 2º Phone: 91 5390090 Opening hours: 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. Closed Sunday night and all day Monday.

Casa Mingo:
Famous city-wide for its roast chicken, both to eat in or take away, this traditional family restaurant has excellent service, and is even better value than the two places mentioned above. Although the Fabada portion is smaller (and cheaper) here, Casa Mingo is always worth a visit for its great food and wonderful atmosphere.

Metro: Principe Pio Address: Paseo de la Florida, 34 Phone: 91 5477918 Opening hours: 11-24h.

See map below for restaurant locations:

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It’s not the most ‘authentic’, rustic taberna in town, it hasn’t got the trendiest food (or clientele), and the service could be a little politer, yet after all these years in Madrid, given a choice I’d far rather eat in the Taverna Miranda (Plaza del Conde de Miranda 4, map/details).

I was there for lunch on Saturday with my sister. We had a plate of croquetas, half a racion of strong, oily Manchego cheese, the creamiest, most sumptious wild mushroom risotto to grace planet earth, and a huge plate of Salteado de Chistorra (slightly spicy sausage with potatoes and Padrón peppers, covered in broken eggs). That and three glasses of fine Rueda wine, and two free chupitos (shots) of Pacharan at the end. Heaven for 40 Euros – though we totally over-ordered and could have got away perfectly without the Salteado. The only downside to the whole experience was not being able to order the duck as well – cut into strips and fried with honey, pine nuts and prunes, it may be even better than the risotto…

Notes: Ideally placed for a stroll around old Madrid afterwards. Book in advance at weekends or be prepared to stand at the bar. There is an outdoor terrace in the beautiful Plaza behind the restaurant that is a joy to sit at in summer.

Will places like this still exist in 10, 20 or 30 years time? Family run, a little rough round the edges, good old-fashioned food – already these ‘typical’ mesones are increasingly rare in Madrid, and you’ll have to get here early (pre-2pm) or late (post-3pm) to get a seat on a weekday lunchtime. The 10 Euro menu del dia is so Castillian that you know what the deserts are even before they run through them at the end of the meal – Arroz con Leche, Flan, Natillas, Cuajada – mostly homemade, all delicious. Before that you’ll get the staple platos de cucharra (first courses you eat with a spoon – lentils, sopa castellana, potaje), followed by big slabs of meat and fish, all washed down with good, cheap red wine.

If you know of any other ‘typically Spanish’ places to get a good old fashioned menu del dia in Madrid, please let us know. Places as good as this are a dying breed, and they need all the support they can get. Trendy new eateries and franchises are already sweeping through the city like wildfire, and it may not be long until the only place you can get good home cooked food is, god forbid, at home!

Restaurante Marsot is (hopefully still!) in Chueca at Calle Pelayo, 6 (map)