It’s not the most ‘authentic’, rustic taberna in town, it hasn’t got the trendiest food (or clientele), and the service could be a little politer, yet after all these years in Madrid, given a choice I’d far rather eat in the Taverna Miranda (Plaza del Conde de Miranda 4, map/details).

I was there for lunch on Saturday with my sister. We had a plate of croquetas, half a racion of strong, oily Manchego cheese, the creamiest, most sumptious wild mushroom risotto to grace planet earth, and a huge plate of Salteado de Chistorra (slightly spicy sausage with potatoes and Padrón peppers, covered in broken eggs). That and three glasses of fine Rueda wine, and two free chupitos (shots) of Pacharan at the end. Heaven for 40 Euros – though we totally over-ordered and could have got away perfectly without the Salteado. The only downside to the whole experience was not being able to order the duck as well – cut into strips and fried with honey, pine nuts and prunes, it may be even better than the risotto…

Notes: Ideally placed for a stroll around old Madrid afterwards. Book in advance at weekends or be prepared to stand at the bar. There is an outdoor terrace in the beautiful Plaza behind the restaurant that is a joy to sit at in summer.