One specific side street is dedicated to pets, with real pet shops on either side of the road, and a few people outside selling their own puppies out of cardboard boxes and sports bags. The main street, c/ Ribera de Curtidores, is the place to head to if you’d like to see antique shops in Madrid, most of which open every day of the week.

There are two extra reasons for visiting the Rastro on a Sunday morning: the first is the live music, from the organ grinder playing Chotis, a popular music and dance from Madrid, to a complete Jazz band if you’re lucky.

The second reason is food: finish your Rastro visit with either the traditional bocadillo de calamares, a battered squid baguette sold in one of the many bars lining the main Rastro strip, or head towards the atmospheric heart of La Latina for lunch in one of the many tapas bars around Plaza de la Cebada and Cava Baja.

TIPS: Go early, from 9:30 to 10:30 a.m., to avoid the masses. Be careful with your wallet, camera and other possessions, as this is a favourite spot for pickpockets.

Metro: La Latina / Tirso de Molina. The Rastro is on Calle Ribera de Curtidores and surrounds. See map below:

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The weather in Madrid has taken a turn towards summer and streets throughout the city have sprouted terrazas. You can surely find a sunny spot for a drink and a snack near your apartment or hotel, but there are two streets in Madrid that truly are prime for dining and drinking al fresco.

Starting at Calle Menendez Pelayo (on the eastern perimeter of Retiro), calles Ibiza and Alcalde Sainz de Baranda are proper boulevards whose wide, paved medians are dotted with newsstands, benches, and, April through October, a non-stop parade of terrazas.

Along these roughly 10 blocks you’ll find all manner of food and drink and almost no tourists. Located in the heart of the Retiro district (located east of the park and south of the Salamanca neighborhood), the area is favored by the locals and the prices are set accordingly. You’ll obviously pay more for dining outside than for having a drink at the bar, but the prices are below those found in more touristy areas. And FAR below those found at the terrazas in the nearby Retiro.

Head over that way in the early evening and pick a place which looks nice — or, more likely, one that has an open table. In the warmest months, the terrazas fill up starting around 7:30 and stay busy until 1 or 2am. If you get there at the right time and can take your pick of the locales, try one of these favorites:

Drinks and snacks

• El Ratón Vaquero, C/ Alcalde Sainz de Baranda, 25 – Vermouth on tap and good tapas
• Natur Aidlans, C/ Ibiza, 17 – Shakes and smoothies made to order
• Tramontana, C/ Sainz de Baranda, 51 – Cheap mixed drinks served to a 20-something clientèle

Dinner

• La Hacienda Argentina, C/ Ibiza, 41 – Every cut of meat you could want
• La Marisqueria Méndez, C/ Ibiza, 33 – Top notch, fresh seafood. Appetizers are the highlight here.

Metros: Ibiza (Line 9), Sainz de Baranda (Lines 6 and 9)

See map below for locations mentioned above:

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Cocido is a very filling stew, especially recommended for cold winter days, or for when you have been toiling away in the open air and need to get some of your energies back.

It is usually served in two stages. The first consists of a broth, straight from a large pan where all the stew’s meat has been slowly simmering all morning. The second course is usually presented in a tray placed in the middle of the table containing chickpeas, cabagge, potato, carrot, and all the meat: beef, chicken, ham, chorizo and sometimes morcilla (black pudding).

In the late forties and most of the fifties, when Spain was quite poor, this dish was served in many houses in Madrid six days a week. The exception was Sundays, when something special, like roast chicken, would be prepared.

Where can I have cocido?

• In Madrid, it’s very common to find cocido on Tuesday’s menú del día. It usually appears as two dishes on the menu: the soup as sopa de cocido, and the rest as segundo de cocido.

• Taberna Daniela: Metro: Goya, Velázquez, Príncipe de Vergara Address: C/ General Pardiñas, 21 Phone: 91 575 23 29 Hours: Daily 12-17:30 and 20:00-24:00 (to 1:00 Fridays and Saturdays).

See map below for location:

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Forget it. I’ve been twice. My first visit inspired only vague disappointment: small portions, stinginess with re-fills, average food, and just-about adequate service. My second visit, more recently, provoked outright fury. After an underestimated (on their part) wait of forty minutes, it took a further ten for them just to take our order.

A bad start to a soul-draining experience. For want of space, I’ll be sparing with the details. Suffice to say I’ve had better hamburgers from street stalls, better pancakes from economy supermarkets, and better service in government buildings. The fruit juice had run out; the waiter brought the dregs of someone else’s honey instead of my maple syrup; the coffee arrived lukewarm… You get the picture.

Hungry, angry and tired, I would have walked out without paying had my companion not had more compassion and class. My only consolation is I do know one wonderful brunch establishment, which I’ll be writing about in the very near future. Watch this space – and feel free to write in with your own recommendations.

I wasn’t happy. Tricked into going to a restaurant where they only eat raw fish and seaweed. That’s low.

Then suddenly I was handed the menu. It had chicken on it! And noodles with vegetables! And more chicken! And looking around, I realised that I was amongst Madrid’s elusive Beautiful People. All, it seemed, was not lost.

So hurray for the weirdly named Pink Sushi Man, where difficult people like me can still walk out feeling satisfied, where the crispy chicken is divine, the noodles are delicious, and the psychedelic decor is as far as you can possibly get from your average Madrid bar.

Highly recommended for a change of scene.

The lunchtime ten Euro menu del dia gets you 5 plates of allegedly very good sushi (or nice cooked food that never saw the ocean floor!) Come very early (by 1.45 for lunch), or risk a long queue.

Metro: Gran Via
Address: Calle del Caballero de Gracia, 10
Phone: 91 360 5608
Hours: lunch 13.30-Midnight, every day.
See map below:

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If you can get hold of it, On Madrid, the entertainment supplement that comes with Friday’s El País, has a little section (within its restaurant section) listing late dining options. Beware, though, as some of these turn out to be false. Best to phone ahead.

Here are the places I know to have extended opening times:

• Pub “Red” (C/ San Vicente Ferrer, 20, Metro Tribunal) – Fresh, unpretentious food (hamburgers and platos combinados) in a haunt of football fanatics. Open until about 2am.

• Hard Rock Café (Pº Castellana, 2, Metro Colón) – Decent, not especially cheap, diner-style food in a haunt of rock ‘n’ roll fanatics. Open all day ”til late’.

• Iberia (Glorieta Ruiz Jimenez, Metro San Bernardo) – A favourite with taxi drivers, who stop for sandwiches at all hours of the night. Good for emergencies.

Any more suggestions?

See map below for places mentioned above:

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When it’s cold in Madrid, nothing revives you like a good Fabada, the thick Asturian bean stew with chorizo, ham and morcilla (black pudding). Here are my three favourite Asturian restaurants to sample a great Fabada, as well as other Asturian delights:

Casa Portal:
This is a friendly and traditional restaurant, not far from the Retiro park. For an informal meal or great tapas, the tables located near the bar are fine. For a relaxed full lunch head further inside to the dinning area located beyond the end of the bar. As well as the Fabada, try the assorted Asturian Cheese plate, croquetas made of vegtables or a strong blue cheese called Cabrales, and the Asturian Omelette with white tuna, onion and tomato.

Metro: Ibiza, Goya, O’Donell Address: C/ Doctor Castelo, 26 Phone: 91 574 2026 Opening hours: 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-23:30. Closed Sunday night and all day Monday.

Casa Hortensia:
Formely located in a tiny restaurant in Lavapies, Casa Hortensia recently moved to a much bigger location on the second floor of the “Centro Asturiano” building just off Calle Fuencarral. They have two sittings for lunch, at 1:30 and 3 pm, and it’s essential to book. It’s really important to note that one portion of Fabada easily feeds two, so one Fabada, a Salad and another starter would be a great choice for two people – the same applies to Casa Portal.

Metro: Tribunal, Chueca Address: C/ Farmacia, 2 2º Phone: 91 5390090 Opening hours: 13:30-16:30 and 20:30-24:00. Closed Sunday night and all day Monday.

Casa Mingo:
Famous city-wide for its roast chicken, both to eat in or take away, this traditional family restaurant has excellent service, and is even better value than the two places mentioned above. Although the Fabada portion is smaller (and cheaper) here, Casa Mingo is always worth a visit for its great food and wonderful atmosphere.

Metro: Principe Pio Address: Paseo de la Florida, 34 Phone: 91 5477918 Opening hours: 11-24h.

See map below for restaurant locations:

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Enter La Sal, one of the most delicious (and reasonably priced) taperías the city has to offer. The menu is short, and having tried almost everything on it, I can say consistently excellent – although the veal steak and duck risotto deserve a special mention.

Deserts are small but exquisite. You won’t regret ordering the apple tart or the chocolate brownie, full of warm sauce. A word of warning, though: the (goat’s) cheesecake does taste a bit like it’s just walked off the farm. Not for the faint-hearted.

The only downside is that the clientèle is a little on the pijo (bumptiously posh) side. You might want to brush down your muddy boots before stepping into the minimalist white decor scheme.

Metro: Banco de España Address: C/ Montalbán, 3 Phone: 91 521 02 28 Hours: lunch 13.30-15.45, dinner 20.30-23.30, closed Sundays.

See map below:

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As mentioned in a previous post, eating vegetarian in Madrid is a fool’s errand or a compelling challenge, depending on how you look at it. There are many establishments that throw ham into every single dish and a large contingent of madrileños that don’t consider fish or seafood to be meat.

But there are some great vegetarian places to try in the city, and their success will increase as the idea of meatless diets gains traction in Spain. This is the latest in a series of posts on eating vegetarian in Madrid.

Seitan foie, pumpkin chutney, seawead caviar, avocado tartar, these are just a few of the ingredients featured on the menu of Yerbabuena, a surprisingly affordable restaurant featuring vegetarian food.

The food is influenced by Mexican, Japanese, French, Italian and Chinese cuisine. Still, there are some vegetarian versions of traditional Spanish cookery, including a vegetarian paella and a La Mancha style vegetable and “sausage” stew. They also have a crema catalana (vegetarian, as normally prepared).

Try the exquisite mousseline and poppyseed crêpe, filled with a quinoa-spinach mix (pictured) or, on weekdays, opt for the filling menú del día–it includes two dishes, rye bread, a drink and a dessert–for 12€.

The interior dining area is a tad cramped but the bright green and salmon décor does help offset the feeling. The staff are unobtrusive and have well written English menus on hand. Reservations are recommended, especially on the weekend.

Metro: Ópera. Tel: 915 480 811. Address: Calle Bordadores 3. See map below:

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In Madrid, though, life is not so bad for those who seek vegetarian-friendly shops or restaurants. First, you’ve got NaturaSí, an Italian natural foods supermarket chain with three locations in Madrid. I buy everything from oats and organic chocolate to tofu and tamari here. Another of the biggies is Ecocentro—a natural foods “center.” In addition to the restaurant with many appetizing options. Finally, in Lavapiés, you’ve got A salto de mata, which is a smaller natural foods store with a serious focus on buying its products locally.

Among the many vegetarian dining options in the city, the organic market and buffet Viva la Vida is excellent for a quick meal. Conveniently located on Calle Huertas, it offers a mouth-watering buffet for 1.80 euros per 100 grams. Make sure to save room for a piece of carrot cake after your meal. El Granero de Lavapiés, on Calle Argumosa, also deserves a mention for its delicious home-cooked, and mostly organic vegetarian food. You’ll feel like you’re at home too, in their welcoming dining room.

See map below for the places mentioned above.

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