For example, from June through October it is used as a pop & rock concert venue, and in my opinion it is one of the best places to listen to live music in Madrid.

It is big enough to hold several thousand people (23,798 seated, to be precise) yet being completely round makes it much more compact and atmospheric than any stadium that I’ve been to for a concert. I’ve been lucky enough to see international bands there like Radiohead, and Spanish artists like Joaquin Sabina. Definitely worth checking out if you see one of your favourite bands on the list for this unique venue.

Metro: Ventas Address: C/Alcalá, 237. See map below:

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1. Madrid Me Mata has provided us with a great resource: a map of all free WiFi hotspots in Madrid. Obviously the guys at MMM need our help, so if you know of a place with free WiFi, you can add it to the map following the instructions (in Spanish) here. Happy (free) surfing!

2. I’ve been meaning to write a post about where to see live music in Madrid. This week the New York Times has published a write-up of great spots to hear live music all over town, and it’s definitely worth checking out. Any places you, dear readers, can add?

“Para gustos hay colores.” This common Spanish phrase, meaning more or less that there are as many preferences as there are colors, sums up the state of affairs when discussing the famous Palacio Real in Madrid.

The royal palace is clearly a gem among the city’s numerous historical spots. But, when it comes to the tour of the Palacio, I see red. As in a big red X. Avoid it. Don’t be swept away by the romantic idea of a grandiose palace with sweeping staircases, royal jewels, and hidden mysteries. Not that they don’t exist, but you aren’t likely to hear any details on the standard, very run-of-the-mill tour. This is no Tower of London. And these are no Beefeaters. The unenthusiastic guides barely manage to provide an adequate introduction to the numerous clocks, mirrors, and chandeliers throughout the palace. And the sheer number of rooms visited (and the time spent describing said clocks) can put you in a trance.

Although the guided tour will set you back just 2€ more than the unguided admission, I recommend saving those euros for a caña. Wandering through the palace on your own allows you the time to gaze out the windows, bypass the slow-moving tour groups, and dedicate more time to the highlights of the palace including the throne room and the numerous masterpieces by some of the Spanish greats. And if you find yourself craving more information on a particular room, you can always slyly dawdle around one of the groups.

One must-see on your palace visit is the exterior. The best parts of the compound are the incredible palace façade and the extensive Sabatini gardens to the north. Admission for the gardens is free and there you can wander through the greenery, indulging yourself in the romantic fantasies that went unfulfilled during the tour.

(Ed. note: Other highlights are the room with the quintet of Stradivarius stringed instruments, the royal armory, and the gorgeous Campo del Moro, the park below the western façade of the palace.)

Metro: Ópera Address: Calle Bailén at the Plaza de Oriente Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30-17:00 (winter), 9:00-18:00 (summer); Sundays 9:00-14:00 (winter) and 9:00-15:00 (summer).

Entrance: Palace – 10€ with tour, 8€ without, 6€ reduced (youth, student, 65+, etc.); Royal armory – 3.40€ standard, 2.50€ reduced.

Changing of the guard: Wednesdays 11am-2pm on the half hour (foot) and hour (horse guard), the first Wednesday of the month is the full changing of the guard ceremony.

See map below:

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Two years ago it was decided to resurrect the station as a museum. It opened this Monday. A photograph shows the derelict state of the ticket office that the workmen found. Today it has been restored to its original ceramic-tiled glory as envisioned by the first architect of the metro, Antonio Palacios.

The visitor enters via a spiral staircase, or lift, sited on the corner of Calles Luchana and Santa Engracia. Two spirals down one passes through the vestibule to where a small tiered cinema, cleverly formed from an old stepped passage, shows a twenty-minute film describing the Metro’s history — from its beginnings in 1922 to the present day. There are evocative scenes of the metro tunnels in use as air-raid shelters during the Civil War and sequences of old pre-metro Madrid with its uncluttered tramways.

Down the steps, no elevators here, through the old style ticket office with its heavy steel gates, the descent leads to the actual platform. The museum planners have designated this “Andén Cero”. The platform is barricaded from the tracks by thick glass panels as the Line 1 trains pass through at high speed.

Overhead the white ceramic bricks gleam in the light of passing trains. On the far platform, on screens once graced by the advertisements of the time, more motion pictures of bygone Madrid are projected. Some of the old advertisements still exist, created from brightly coloured ceramic tile. These were not changed weekly!

The visit, including the film show, takes less than an hour. It presents a curious and evocative glimpse of times gone by. The restoration has given Madrid a time capsule of life before today’s frantic bustle.

Metro: Bilbao, Iglesia and Rubén Darío (The train no longer stops at Chamberí.) Address: Corner of C/ Luchana and Santa Engracía Hours: Tuesday-Friday 11:00-19:00; Saturdays, Sundays and holidays 10:00-14:00; closed Mondays.

See location on map below:

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Brimming with caricatures, photographs, archival video footage and dance costumes, the exhibit occupies 14 rooms on the third floor of the museum and will take at least an hour and a bit (y pico) to enjoy properly. The show includes big Vanguard names, including Manet, Picasso, Miró and Man Ray, as well as iconic Spanish painters like Solana and Romero de Torres. But it centers on the meeting of the salon and the street, of the reflecting of this frenetic music and dance form through the artistic prism.

Through the artistic representations of flamenco, we grasp for clues to understanding Spanish folklore, fashion, politics and sexual roles. Spanish national character on this stage is at once brazen and coquettish, flamboyant and somber, obvious and elusive.

The only major failing of the exhibit is that you’ll be out of luck for descriptions if you don’t read Spanish (if I recall correctly; let me know if I overlooked translations). At any rate, the art itself is transfixing enough to overcome any lack of words.

See our full Reina Sofia write-up for location and opening times.

I’d recommend whizzing up to the second floor in one of the über-modern glass elevators to begin your tour. This is where you’ll find Picasso, Dalí, Miró, and Gris: the heart of the permanent collection. One of my favorite rooms on the second floor, though, is beyond Guernica in the tiny sala 8, which is home to photos of Madrid taken during the Guerra Civil—the Telefónica building barricaded with sandbags and the like. If you have the time and energy, swing through the fourth floor to catch works from the latter half of the 20th century to present day.

Don’t forget to check out what’s on in the temporary exhibits in the expansion of the museum—they could be well worth it. And keep in mind that there’s plenty to do besides looking at paintings: the courtyard garden of the main building is a lovely place to sit on a nice day, and the cafeteria/restaurant Arola (in the expansion) offers food and drink in a decidedly 21st-century setting. You also shouldn’t miss La Central, the museum’s excellent bookshop.

Free entry: Sat. 14.30-21.00 and Sun. 10.00-14.30. General admission at other times: 6 euros. Closed Tuesdays. More details

Metro: Atocha. Calle Santa Isabel, 52. See map below:

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If my knowledge of flamenco (and pockets) were deeper, I’d be using this space to give you a concise and comprehensive review of Madrid’s tablaos (flamenco joints). As it is, this post is going to be more of a call for comparison. I’m hoping my ignorance will ruffle the feathers of some Andalusian culture vulture, who’ll spring forth and give us the lowdown…

Personally, I’ve only visited two of Madrid’s flamenco venues: Las Carboneras and El Corral de la Morería (see video above). The latter, as it’s fond of telling you, is the oldest tablao in Madrid, and a firm favourite with Hollywood stars. The décor is traditional, bordering on the twee; the costumes might be described as the same. Las Carboneras aims to be more hip, with a low stage and understated outfits. But both places offer essentially the same thing: dinner followed by an hour-long show. And both feature big stars.

Big prices too. A dinner performance will set you back around 75€. Better to opt for a very early or very late show and forgo the unspectacular food. 25€ (one drink included) is still steep for what you get; but if you yearn to see flamenco dancing in Madrid, Burger King is open until 1:30am.

See websites for programmes and contact details: Las Carboneras (Plazuela del Conde de Miranda, 1); El Corral de la Morería (Calle de la Morería, 17).

See map below for locations (ed. I’ve added Casa Patas):

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(Continuing from Part 1 – Intro to the Prado…)

Entering the museum through the “Puerta Alta de Goya” (at the top of the stairs outside, so on the first floor), look at your map and head (counter-intuitively) for the basement first (numbers 100-102 on the map) by crossing the entire first floor (24-32) and descending the two flights of stairs. The “Tesoro del Delfín” basement collection is a wonderful amalgamation of pots, vases and other interior decoration that is too easily forgotten among the bombastic paintings above ground.

Move up one flight of stairs and turn left, heading into 72. Numbers 71-74 form a selection of classical sculpture, nice for fans and certainly interesting on account of its not being painting. Turn left after entered 74, and have a brief look at the Italian painters in 75 (remember not to linger!) Cross 47 into 49, disregarding its Italian paintings for a moment; you will come back here later. Turn right (55B) and be surprised by the contrast between Italian and German painting. Straight ahead into 55, turn left (during my last visit, there was no other choice as the “A” rooms on the map were shut off) and pass the mildly interesting Flemish paintings in 56 and 57, turning left again into 57B, and again left into 56B. Don’t go straight ahead, you’ve already been there! Turn right, and you’re back among the Italian paintings of Rafael in 49. Turn right again, cross 50, and: congratulations, you’ve completed 2 out of 4 floors!

Take a hard left, and ascend the stairs: you’re back where you started. Cross the hall into 4; to your left, there is quite a bit of forgettable French painting leading to a dead end. Unfortunately, the paintings by Claude at the far end are gorgeous (now that’s what I call merchandising), so move quickly into number 2 and back again. Straight ahead (5-6) brings you slightly more interesting Italian painting, leading to the only “Dutch room” in the Prado (7). Being the traitor to my country that I am, I couldn’t care less, and move left and immediately right to have a glance at Tiziano (7A-8A). This leads you to the intriguing paintings of El Greco (9A-10A), definitely worth a look. Turning right into 10, this is where Rubens starts. Take another right, crossing 9 and 8, and left again into 8B (not straight ahead, or you’ll be in the Dutch room again). Another left brings you to 9B, and a subsequent right takes you back to the hallway that you have seen before (you can skip 10B, don’t worry).

This is the “heart” of the Prado, littered with Spanish masters. Turn left and have a brief look at 26 and 27, preludes to the big names (forget 25 for the moment). Another left brings you into the realm of Velázquez, impressive if only for the big octagonal room he occupies. There’s more of him when you take a right (14-15), but keep in mind that this part is essentially a dead end: after making a circle, you will have to cross Velázquez again to get back into the grand hallway. When there, go left and start overdosing on Goya: it is more or less the last artist of your Power Tour. Have a quick peek into 16B, and drift through 29 and 32, where you turn right into 35-38. In my opinion, the round Goya paintings here are most worth your attention. Move into the hallway when in 37, and, if you’re up for it, peek into 39 on your right. Then, straight ahead and up the stairs to your right. These lead you to 85, where a happier and more colourful Goya greets you. Take advantage of this joyful spell, move into the hallway and turn right: rooms 90-94 will show you similar Goya paintings. Had you turned left, you would have visited 86-89, a salad bowl of paintings hard to categorize and even harder to recommend. Forget them, and leave with the colours of Goya in your head, moving down the stairs again and along the grand hallway back to where your coat is hanging.

At this point: pat yourself on the back – you have survived the Prado!

Fitting into a three-hour-or-so visit, you can start on the second (top) floor and work your way down chronologically. I like to play “spot the donor” with the older paintings. Continue for some fine Renaissance portraits, including the famous Ghirlandaio portrait of Giovanna Tornabouni.

The collection boasts many Flemish and Dutch masterpieces. Keep your eyes peeled for some Spanish painters: Ribera, Zurburán, El Greco and Goya (just a handful of them compared to the Prado). There are also many fine examples the 19th century American painting, especially landscapes.

I’m biased toward the lettered wings on the first and second floors over the numbered rooms, for whatever reason. Perhaps it’s how the spaces are connected, allowing one to glimpse this beauty from several rooms afar.

The impressionist, post-impressionist, and expressionist rooms are utterly transporting: among them are works by Pisarro, Degas, Monet, Renoir, Hassam, Gauguin, Toulouse-Lautrec and Van Gogh. On the ground floor, you can catch works by Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Dalí and Lichtenstein.

Despite not filling a clear niche, this is a must-see museum. Main collection tickets are 6 €/4€ for students and senior citizens, and 9€/5€ to see the general collection and temporary exhibit.

Metro: Banco de España. Paseo del Prado, 8. See map below:

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Right, the Prado. Without a doubt, this is Madrid’s business card for art lovers – or any bus load of tourists, really. Known throughout the world as a must-visit, the museum contains a wide array of paintings up until the 18th century, with a strong focus on the Holy Trinity of Spanish painters (being Goya, Velázquez and El Greco). Flanking its very own avenue (indeed, the “Paseo del Prado”), the sheer volume of art presented to the public is overwhelming in its own right.

And this is exactly one of the Prado’s problems. No matter the sophistication of your art stamina, Madrid’s most lauded museum simply contains too much. I myself generally call it a day after 1½ hours max, and have a strong preference for anything exhibition-related to be a one-hour affair. Now, these numbers may vary from visitor to visitor, but regardless of your art-absorbing capabilities, I tend to propose a “Power Prado” tour, either as an orientation or as a means to tick the mother of Madrid museums off your list.

So, to turn your visit into a Power Tour, remember the following:

The key to the Prado, in my humble opinion, is strategy. The building lacks a clear structure, which may lead to you getting lost, coming across the same works twice or three times, thereby wasting valuable time and energy. Upon entering, get yourself one of those maps (Plano del Museo) and keep it handy at all times. Before embarking on your tour, please remind yourself to keep up the pace. Walk briskly, and try not to linger in places; this breaks your strategy and eats away your scarce energy resources – if necessary, mark the interesting spots on your plano and save them for a follow-up visit. Whenever encountering an art form that is not painting, savour it – they are few and far between, and will recharge your batteries for paintings yet to come. And, strange as it may seem, start with the basement (sótano) and move your way up systematically to the second floor (planta segunda) so as to build up momentum for the great Goya.

Next in our Prado series: the ‘Full Prado Power Tour’

www.museodelprado.es
Opening times and admission details
Metro: Banco de España. Address: Paseo del Prado, see map below:

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Image of Prado courtesy Montrealais,Wikipedia