As mentioned in a previous post, eating vegetarian in Madrid is a fool’s errand or a compelling challenge, depending on how you look at it. There are many establishments that throw ham into every single dish and a large contingent of madrileños that don’t consider fish or seafood to be meat.

But there are some great vegetarian places to try in the city, and their success will increase as the idea of meatless diets gains traction in Spain. This is the latest in a series of posts on eating vegetarian in Madrid.

Seitan foie, pumpkin chutney, seawead caviar, avocado tartar, these are just a few of the ingredients featured on the menu of Yerbabuena, a surprisingly affordable restaurant featuring vegetarian food.

The food is influenced by Mexican, Japanese, French, Italian and Chinese cuisine. Still, there are some vegetarian versions of traditional Spanish cookery, including a vegetarian paella and a La Mancha style vegetable and “sausage” stew. They also have a crema catalana (vegetarian, as normally prepared).

Try the exquisite mousseline and poppyseed crêpe, filled with a quinoa-spinach mix (pictured) or, on weekdays, opt for the filling menú del día–it includes two dishes, rye bread, a drink and a dessert–for 12€.

The interior dining area is a tad cramped but the bright green and salmon décor does help offset the feeling. The staff are unobtrusive and have well written English menus on hand. Reservations are recommended, especially on the weekend.

Metro: Ópera. Tel: 915 480 811. Address: Calle Bordadores 3. See map below:

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The holidays are upon us and it’s time to decorate your piso. Christmas trees, holiday lights, nativity scene figurines. Where in Madrid can you shop for decorations?

In a word – Plaza Mayor. The scene of a traditional, frenetic holiday market, the various stalls of the plaza offer all of the above and more. You’ll find entire stalls dedicated to the nativity scene and its players; the creation of a belen in Spain is clearly a labor of love. Detailed baby Jesus can set you back 100€ while smaller, less-important figures are available starting around 9€; stables run well into the hundreds. At the other stalls you’ll find artificial trees (ranging in height from one to ten feet), strings of lights, stockings, and poinsettias.

Although you can also certainly pick up your Christmas tree in the plaza, why not do something good for the world at the same time? Stop over at the Environmental Sciences School in Ciudad Universitaria where they offer potted holiday trees for “rent.” Pick out yours (free delivery for those measuring over 1.25m), dress it up for a few weeks, and once the holidays have passed return the tree to the school. They’ll then plant the tree in their own gardens or out in the wilderness surrounding Madrid. Trees start at 20€ and top-out at 160€ for a 12-foot monster.

Happy holidays and happy shopping!

Everyone who decides to have lunch in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor soon discovers that they have made a huge mistake. The Menu del Dia (lunchtime set menu) is far too expensive and usually not all that good. Walk a few minutes in any direction however, and you are likely to be far better off. My personal favourite for a Menu del Dia near the Plaza Mayor is Refra, at Calle Santiago 4 (just across the Calle Mayor – Map).

For 8.50 inside and 10.50 on the terrace, you get around 5 starters, 5 main courses and 5 deserts to choose from, in what is basically a top quality working man’s lunchtime menu served in a friendly, family-run establishment. You will be eating with the locals, you won’t get ripped off, and you will leave more than satisfied. I ate here almost every day for three months whilst living in the Hostal Santiago opposite (see book for details!), so I know what I’m talking about!

It’s not the most ‘authentic’, rustic taberna in town, it hasn’t got the trendiest food (or clientele), and the service could be a little politer, yet after all these years in Madrid, given a choice I’d far rather eat in the Taverna Miranda (Plaza del Conde de Miranda 4, map/details).

I was there for lunch on Saturday with my sister. We had a plate of croquetas, half a racion of strong, oily Manchego cheese, the creamiest, most sumptious wild mushroom risotto to grace planet earth, and a huge plate of Salteado de Chistorra (slightly spicy sausage with potatoes and Padrón peppers, covered in broken eggs). That and three glasses of fine Rueda wine, and two free chupitos (shots) of Pacharan at the end. Heaven for 40 Euros – though we totally over-ordered and could have got away perfectly without the Salteado. The only downside to the whole experience was not being able to order the duck as well – cut into strips and fried with honey, pine nuts and prunes, it may be even better than the risotto…

Notes: Ideally placed for a stroll around old Madrid afterwards. Book in advance at weekends or be prepared to stand at the bar. There is an outdoor terrace in the beautiful Plaza behind the restaurant that is a joy to sit at in summer.