It has become somewhat of a cliché over the years: neglected neighbourhood with bad name is adopted by gay community and turned hip ‘n’ happening (NYC’s Meatpacking District, or Athens’ Gazi area, to name just two). This is pretty much Chueca’s story too, once a blister on Madrid’s foot, now a be-there-or-be-square phenomenon adorned with adjectives such as grungy, sexy and raw.

As befits a neighbourhood, it has its own square: Plaza de Chueca (where Gravina street hits Barbieri). This is not the place where all (small) roads lead, but its relatively sheltered position gives the plaza its offbeat uniqueness (yes, another adjective). It’s a random empty space between a set of residential buildings, littered with terraces and quirky bars. Have a seat and enjoy your clara (beer and soda) or tinto de verano (red wine and soda).

If you’re not ready yet for anything alcoholic (let’s say it’s 1 PM), head for Mamá Inés (C/ Hortaleza, 22) to have a coffee and a sandwich (or a piece of banana cake!) If you have to replenish your stomach in between anythings alcoholic (read: dinner), plenty of options: tapas with a twist at 4 de Tapas (C/ Barbieri, 4), Mexican food at La Panza es Primero (C/ Libertad, 31), a taste of the Middle East at Al-Jaima (C/ Barbieri, 1), then a bit Further East at Chueca’s The Wok branch (C/ Gravina, 17), or simply the best pita falafel with humus at the Maoz franchise (C/ Hortaleza, 7).

For anything bar-related, either stay close to the Plaza, or simply follow the crowds. Get a bit more loungy at Areia (C/ Hortaleza, 92), leaning back into ample cushions and enjoying your mojito in a Thousand-and-one-Night atmosphere. If you are up for genuinely fitting in with the young and hip, you should not skip Bar Nike (C/ Augusto Figueroa, 22): yes, indeed, that brightly lit “bathroom” on the corner with that huge crowd spilling onto the sidewalk. And while you’re at it, why not go all the way and order Calimocho (red wine with coke (!)) in a mini (one-liter plastic cup)… yes, it’s disgusting, but not as disgusting as you might think.

Finally, let it all out and follow the gay crowds down Gran Vía to (hetero-friendly) Ohm (Plaza Callao, 4 – in Discoteca Bash), a stylish basement all about hard clubbing. If you’re neither into house nor into gay, get in line for rocky/jazzy yet “upbeat” Bogui (C/ Barquillo, 29). And remember to dress up crazy – after all, anything goes in Chueca!

See map below for locations mentioned above:

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What fun! Apparently it’s called El Cisne Azul, specialises in wild mushrooms and impromptu opera madness, and is located at Calle Gravina 19 (map).

Another one that may be more useful for new residents than visitors to Madrid, but certainly worth knowing about! The Calle Barquillo is all about cheap TVs, stereos, microphones, DJ equipment, video cameras, mp3 players… just about anything you could want to watch, listen to or record with at home is here. There a are a couple of high-end hi-fi places that will still sell you a 1000 Euro record turntable, but essentially this is all about bargains.

For every electronic knick-knack under the sun (speaker cable, headphone splitters, disco lights, bizzare plugs and adapters ad infinitum) check out Electronica Lila at no. 35 (map) – if they can’t find the peripheral what-not you are looking for, forget about getting it anywhere else in Madrid.

Will places like this still exist in 10, 20 or 30 years time? Family run, a little rough round the edges, good old-fashioned food – already these ‘typical’ mesones are increasingly rare in Madrid, and you’ll have to get here early (pre-2pm) or late (post-3pm) to get a seat on a weekday lunchtime. The 10 Euro menu del dia is so Castillian that you know what the deserts are even before they run through them at the end of the meal – Arroz con Leche, Flan, Natillas, Cuajada – mostly homemade, all delicious. Before that you’ll get the staple platos de cucharra (first courses you eat with a spoon – lentils, sopa castellana, potaje), followed by big slabs of meat and fish, all washed down with good, cheap red wine.

If you know of any other ‘typically Spanish’ places to get a good old fashioned menu del dia in Madrid, please let us know. Places as good as this are a dying breed, and they need all the support they can get. Trendy new eateries and franchises are already sweeping through the city like wildfire, and it may not be long until the only place you can get good home cooked food is, god forbid, at home!

Restaurante Marsot is (hopefully still!) in Chueca at Calle Pelayo, 6 (map)

…especially in February. Although you have to be very careful with drinking Vermouth before lunch, especially the good stuff like this, straight from the tap with a little added fizz. And even more so when followed by a bit of Rioja with your menu del dia… So, if you do come to the Antigua Casa Angel Sierra to stand around and watch the wonderful world of Chueca go by, just make sure you have time for one hell of a siesta later. (By the way, it’s pretty inside too – fresco on the ceiling, musty bottles, big zinc bar – but you’re much better off in the sun!) Found at: Calle de Gravina 11, map.

We asked Katie to recommend one of her favourite Madrid haunts, and she sent us details of the legendary El Tigre:

“El Tigre is a bar in the center of Madrid (C/ Infantas 30. Map), just off Gran Vía, and in the über-trendy and gay barrio, Chueca. But this bar is neither trendy nor gay. It’s always bustling — and with good reason. With a 1.50 euro caña (small beer) you get a plate full of whatever’s on the grill and more: patatas bravas, croquetas, jamón, egg, fried peppers, cheese. The guys behind the bar yell orders constantly, while pouring beers, and move as if bar tending were a choreographed art. You have to fight your way to the bar and perch your plate wherever you can, but a tasty and filling meal for under 5 euros (that’s three cañas) and great ambiente are worth it.”

Thanks Katie!

Momo solves both these problems in style. Plenty of chips with every dish, and great sauces, while managing to stay perfectly Spanish at the same time. Try the Turkey with Almond and Onion Sauce, Fillet of Pork with Roquefort and Celery Sauce, or Chicken with Curry Sauce. Hmmmmm. Each comes as part of a 3 course menu del dia for 9.90 Euros, which includes bread, wine, good looking waiters, cool décor, and sumptuous deserts like the Moco de chocolate anti-depresivo – “anti-depressive chocolate bogey” (it really is called that…)

Momo can be found at Calle de la Libertad, 8. Tel: 91 532 7348 (map) It’s right in the middle of Chueca, a lovely part of the city for an after meal stroll.