The weather in Madrid has taken a turn towards summer and streets throughout the city have sprouted terrazas. You can surely find a sunny spot for a drink and a snack near your apartment or hotel, but there are two streets in Madrid that truly are prime for dining and drinking al fresco.

Starting at Calle Menendez Pelayo (on the eastern perimeter of Retiro), calles Ibiza and Alcalde Sainz de Baranda are proper boulevards whose wide, paved medians are dotted with newsstands, benches, and, April through October, a non-stop parade of terrazas.

Along these roughly 10 blocks you’ll find all manner of food and drink and almost no tourists. Located in the heart of the Retiro district (located east of the park and south of the Salamanca neighborhood), the area is favored by the locals and the prices are set accordingly. You’ll obviously pay more for dining outside than for having a drink at the bar, but the prices are below those found in more touristy areas. And FAR below those found at the terrazas in the nearby Retiro.

Head over that way in the early evening and pick a place which looks nice — or, more likely, one that has an open table. In the warmest months, the terrazas fill up starting around 7:30 and stay busy until 1 or 2am. If you get there at the right time and can take your pick of the locales, try one of these favorites:

Drinks and snacks

• El Ratón Vaquero, C/ Alcalde Sainz de Baranda, 25 – Vermouth on tap and good tapas
• Natur Aidlans, C/ Ibiza, 17 – Shakes and smoothies made to order
• Tramontana, C/ Sainz de Baranda, 51 – Cheap mixed drinks served to a 20-something clientèle

Dinner

• La Hacienda Argentina, C/ Ibiza, 41 – Every cut of meat you could want
• La Marisqueria Méndez, C/ Ibiza, 33 – Top notch, fresh seafood. Appetizers are the highlight here.

Metros: Ibiza (Line 9), Sainz de Baranda (Lines 6 and 9)

See map below for locations mentioned above:

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Madrid is known for its sunny, chattering terrazas—open patios that cafés typically operate April through October.

Even more special are rooftop terrazas. Madrid has no skyline to speak of, but its buildings are still tall enough to hide you from the stares of passers-by and give you a unique view of the city.

Here, then, are my favorite terrazas with day or nighttime views:

1. Gaudeamus Café: Atop the church-turned-UNED building in Lavapiés, this place has a chill atmosphere and is the perfect place to share a drink or light lunch with friends.

2. La Casa Encendida: We’ve mentioned this art space’s rooftop before, and granted, while there’s no food for sale, you could reasonably try to bring a solidarity picnic or at least go to tomar el sol.

3. Casa Granada: Its views rank well above its menu. Marina recommends arriving before sunset to get both the before and after vistas.

Downtown Hotel Urban (La Terraza del Urban), Hotel de las Letras (Ático de Letras), and Hotel Puerta América (Sky Night) all offer swank rooftop bars—think cool jazz and cocktails—but I readily admit I’ve not yet visited any of them. Too high (class) for me. But perhaps you’ll find a special occasion that warrants a visit. Remember, you’re paying for the view.

(Ed. note: The above photo is the view of La Latina from another venerable rooftop in Madrid, El Viajero.)

Do you know of anywhere else to get a view with your drink or meal?

See map below for all locations mentioned above:

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You can think of La Latina as Lavapiés’ more stylish older sister. The neighborhood is one of the most lively in Madrid thanks to the combination of a high concentration of good tapas bars and a young, modern crowd. And it’s happening at about any time of the week. Sundays may be La Latina’s busiest day, with the morning Rastro and the afternoon spillover into the bars and plazas of the barrio. Enter any bar at about 6 p.m. and it’ll feel like Saturday night all over again.

Ben has already made a fantastic map with some of his favorite bars, but here are a few more suggestions for Sundays and beyond:

Drink: Taberna Salamanca is a tiny, old timey place on the famed Cava Baja good for a drink before heading elsewhere—the food is apparently worth it as well. Barrio Alto is a stylish yet laid-back bar that boasts cocktails and reasonably priced light meals set to jazz, funk, and more.

Eat: Taberna El Almendro deserves the first mention for the outstanding price-quality ratio and ambience to boot. Txakoli is an excellent Basque pintxos bar with two locations. Juana La Loca offers innovative pintxos in a sit-down setting. Some complain it’s overpriced, but it’s worth trying the tortilla de patata with caramelized onions.

Picnic: Grab a bocadillo from the Cervecería San Andrés and join the multitudes sitting in the adjacent plaza on a sunny day at any time of year (see photo above!). You can also head down to the lovely Plaza de la Paja to hit up the brand new second location of Viva la Vida, the vegetarian take-away buffet, and eat outside.

Debauch: One word: Contraclub. Copas and great music: funk, soul, rock, etc. No 40 Principales to be found here. Friday and Saturday it’s open ‘til 6 a.m., with free entry until 2 a.m.

What are your favorite spots in La Latina?

See map below for all places mentioned above as well as opening hours:

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If you’ve ever gone searching for a truly Madrid part of Madrid—with a bit of history, a decent serving of grit, and lots of character—look no further than the heart of Malasaña. There you’ll find the storied Plaza del Dos de Mayo, which, from its tumultuous beginnings two centuries ago to its infamous recent history, has been home to plenty of unrest. During a drug-ridden period in the 80s, my madrileña Spanish teacher says she wouldn’t have dared cross the square alone.

But these days it is one of the most enjoyably authentic places to go in the city. In summer, terrazas fill the plaza with metal tables and chairs, and chances are that you will have to wait for a seat. To offset all those dobles you’ll be pouring into your gut, grab something to eat at one of the two pizzerias opposite each other on the square, the inventive Maravillas or the more traditional Sandos.

The gem of the plaza is Pepe Botella, a cozy café with low lighting and seats covered in red velvet. Not only does Pepe serve great drinks all day (and night) long, it has a free WiFi connection. Since they don’t serve food, the staff doesn’t mind if you bring your own. I recommend the pine nut tarts (2.10 euros) from the bakery cater-corner on the plaza.

See map below for the places mentioned above:

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So you have spent Sunday morning on the steep slopes of El Rastro. You have been all the way to the bottom and now you have climbed back to the top again. You have enjoyed browsing around the stalls, if not the crush of people and having to keep a wary eye out for pick-pockets. Now you fancy a drink, hot or cold, and perhaps a bite to eat.

Just a hundred metres away is the newly remodelled Plaza Tirso de Molino. On Sunday mornings its paved space is home to politicos and environmentalists selling trinkets and texts as well as the usual florists. There you will find the bar that shares its name with the plaza.

Resembling a Parisian bistro straight out of the Belle Epoque, both inside and out is decorated with Toulouse Lautrec(ish) tiled drawings. The bar is long. The tables are chipped and worn. The waiters wear long aprons.

Notes from Madrid reviews are about where we would take our friends. The bar Tirso de Molina is where I take every new visitor to Madrid I meet. No one has failed to enjoy it simple pleasures. One Bostonian film-maker liked it so much he ate all his meals there for his three day stay.

I cannot resist their Chorizos a la Sidra. You get a bowl full of plump sausages in a superb sauce. The Champiñones al Ajillo are a meal in themselves. And once we persuaded them to remove the tuna, my vegetarian guests said the salads were delicious and more than they could eat. The food comes both as either tapas or raciónes (a much larger portion than a tapa) and is very reasonably priced.

But if nothing else, after a hard morning at the Rastro, just sit with some friends over a coffee or a cerveza, regard the Moulin Rouge illustrations, and relax.

Metro: Tirso de Molina. Plaza Tirso de Molina 9. See map below:

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The Puerta del Sol can be one of the most avoidable places in Madrid—what with its tourists, ear-splitting construction racket and general bustle. Steer clear of the Puerta del Sol itself and the streets north, between Sol and Gran Vía, which are teeming with commercial glut—from souvenir shops to seedy sex shops.

Luckily, other streets close to Sol and the lively Plaza de Santa Ana conceal many treasures, transporting you far away from the likes of El Corte Inglés, Mickey and other snares.

For one, there are dozens of tapas bars. I recommend gambas at La Casa del Abuelo (C/ Goya, 57; C/ Núñez de Arce, 5) , patatas bravas at Las Bravas (C/ Álvarez Gato, 3; Pasaje Matheu, 5; C/ de la Cruz, 14 ; C/ Espoz y Mina, 13), and tostas at La Malaspina (C/ Cádiz, 9) , but those are just starting points. Good bars are littered on and around the streets Calle de Espoz y Mina and Calle de la Cruz. Explore and experiment!

Then there’s the plethora of nearby authentic, late-night flamenco actuaciones (shows) in intimate bars—an alternative to the pricier, fancier tablao experience. The music and dance starts after 11 or 12 p.m. on certain nights of the week at El Callejón de Madrid (C/ Manuel Fernández y González, 5) , El Burladero (C/ Echegaray, 5), España Cañí (Plaza del Ángel, 14) and Cardamomo (C/ Echegaray, 15) .

Round off a night well spent in the Sol/Santa Ana area by having chocolate con churros at nearby Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo San Ginés, 5), open all night long.

For directions to the places mentioned above, see map below:

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It has become somewhat of a cliché over the years: neglected neighbourhood with bad name is adopted by gay community and turned hip ‘n’ happening (NYC’s Meatpacking District, or Athens’ Gazi area, to name just two). This is pretty much Chueca’s story too, once a blister on Madrid’s foot, now a be-there-or-be-square phenomenon adorned with adjectives such as grungy, sexy and raw.

As befits a neighbourhood, it has its own square: Plaza de Chueca (where Gravina street hits Barbieri). This is not the place where all (small) roads lead, but its relatively sheltered position gives the plaza its offbeat uniqueness (yes, another adjective). It’s a random empty space between a set of residential buildings, littered with terraces and quirky bars. Have a seat and enjoy your clara (beer and soda) or tinto de verano (red wine and soda).

If you’re not ready yet for anything alcoholic (let’s say it’s 1 PM), head for Mamá Inés (C/ Hortaleza, 22) to have a coffee and a sandwich (or a piece of banana cake!) If you have to replenish your stomach in between anythings alcoholic (read: dinner), plenty of options: tapas with a twist at 4 de Tapas (C/ Barbieri, 4), Mexican food at La Panza es Primero (C/ Libertad, 31), a taste of the Middle East at Al-Jaima (C/ Barbieri, 1), then a bit Further East at Chueca’s The Wok branch (C/ Gravina, 17), or simply the best pita falafel with humus at the Maoz franchise (C/ Hortaleza, 7).

For anything bar-related, either stay close to the Plaza, or simply follow the crowds. Get a bit more loungy at Areia (C/ Hortaleza, 92), leaning back into ample cushions and enjoying your mojito in a Thousand-and-one-Night atmosphere. If you are up for genuinely fitting in with the young and hip, you should not skip Bar Nike (C/ Augusto Figueroa, 22): yes, indeed, that brightly lit “bathroom” on the corner with that huge crowd spilling onto the sidewalk. And while you’re at it, why not go all the way and order Calimocho (red wine with coke (!)) in a mini (one-liter plastic cup)… yes, it’s disgusting, but not as disgusting as you might think.

Finally, let it all out and follow the gay crowds down Gran Vía to (hetero-friendly) Ohm (Plaza Callao, 4 – in Discoteca Bash), a stylish basement all about hard clubbing. If you’re neither into house nor into gay, get in line for rocky/jazzy yet “upbeat” Bogui (C/ Barquillo, 29). And remember to dress up crazy – after all, anything goes in Chueca!

See map below for locations mentioned above:

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The mindless graffiti and affable goths seem a lukewarm legacy of La Movida Madrileña (the capital’s post-Franco wild years) which kicked off in Malasaña in the Seventies. However, some of Spain’s cultural revolutionaries (the ones who didn’t die of heroine overdoses) are still to be spotted slinking around the barrio, ensuring that the party spirit lives on. Meanwhile, gentrification has led to some great shopping and eating options.

Drinking: In summer, the Plaza Dos de Mayo is the perfect spot for a caña. In colder weather, try the bars in its vicinity, such as El Maño (C/ Palma 64), which serves good wine in art(y) deco surroundings. For those craving a taste of the Malasaña celebrated in Almodóvar’s early films, La Vía Láctea (C/ Velarde 18) provides a dose of historical hedonism.

Eating: Tasty modern tapas can be gorged at a decent price at Ojalá; but the barrio also boasts some fine international restaurants, such as La Granja de Said (Moroccan; C/ San Andrés 11), La Catrina (Mexican; C/ Corredera Alta de San Pablo 13), Xin (Asian), and Palermo Viejo (Argentinean; C/ San Joaquín 5).

Shopping: One of Malasaña’s main arteries, C/ Corredera Alta de San Pablo heaves with everything from wool (at no. 12) to state-of-the-art trainers (Tabula Rasa, at no. 33); while on nearby streets, quirky boutiques like Ioli (bespoke shoes) and Corachan y Delgado (vintage designer clothes; C/ Valverde 42) are popping up all the time. C/ Manuela Malasaña is great for gifts, and C/ Palma is the street for record shopping.

See map below for the addresses mentioned above (click on the markers!):

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Lavapiés is the cultural melting pot and most bohemian barrio of central Madrid. It’s also one of the older Madrid neighborhoods, having been the Jewish quarter until their expulsion in 1492. On any given day you’ll run across African, Bengali, and Moroccan immigrants as well as twenty- and thirty-somethings with an alternative vibe. People go to enjoy ethnic food—mainly Indian restaurants and kebab joints—as well as great Spanish bars and cafés and a relaxed atmosphere. You’ll find that it’s not as much of a place to be seen as La Latina or as hip as Malasaña—Lavapiés grooves to its own rhythm.

Some of the many places to go:

• Nuevo Café Barbieri—there’s nothing “new” about this 1901 café with mirrored walls, impossibly high ceilings, and red velvet. The focus here is on drinks: from teas and chocolates to cocktails and beers. Evenings there’s live music in a back room.
• Melo’s—always filled to the rafters, and with good reason. One reason is the zapatilla: a mountain of lacón and melted cheese on two enormous slices of toasted bread for only 8 euros. Feeds four easily. The croquetas aren’t half bad, either. Take out available—you’ll surely be more comfortable. Open evenings (from 21h) Tues.-Sat.
• El Granero de Lavapiés—vegetarian food at a very reasonable price. Open daily for lunch; dinner Fridays only.
• La Grándola—jarras of beer and peanuts, all while seated on kegs.
• La Escalera de Jacob—food and drink plus cultural center of sorts, with live music and theater.
• La Librería de Lavapiés—“alternative bookstore” with books in foreign languages. Open Sundays!
• Indian food—I’m partial to Bombay Palace on C/ Ave María, but everyone has a favorite. Many of these places are actually run by Bangladeshis, making authentic Indian unlikely in many spots.
• Kebabs—I’m a fan of Alquezar on C/ Lavapiés.
• Calle Argumosa—this tree-lined street is full of bars and terrazas and a very pleasant place to spend an afternoon.

Keep in mind that Lavapiés is surrounded by great cultural institutions: Museo Nacional Reina Sofía, La Casa Encendida, Teatro Valle-Inclán, and Cine Doré. It’s also close to the Sunday morning Rastro, and a less-crowded alternative to bar hopping in La Latina after the market.

What are your favorite spots in Lavapiés?

(Want to read about trials and tribulations of buying and renovating a run-down flat in Lavapies? Check out Errant in Iberia. For a detailed map of all the places mentioned above, see below…)

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A tapa is a little bit of food to have with your drink. There are several stories about the origin of tapas, but in my opinion, the main objective was clearly to avoid people getting too drunk while drinking wine or beer. This little bit of food can be anything from a small, hot plate of garlic mushrooms or mussels, to a couple of slices of cheese or ham with bread, or some olives.

Where is the best place to eat Tapas in Madrid?

Right, there are two types of bars: the ones that serve a free tapa each time you order a drink, like El Tigre, and the ones that don’t.

So, lets say it’s the first time that my friends and I drop by a certain bar. We’ll only order drinks first, and wait to see if a free tapa comes along. If it doesn’t, then we’ll order one or two tapas from the menu, or a couple of raciones (a larger plateful of the same food), to share between all of us. Then, when we have all finished our food and drinks, we’ll make a move on to the next bar and repeat the operation all over again.

This process usually goes on until we are all full up of good food and delicious wine. This idea of tapas-hunting from bar to bar is what is known in Spanish as Ir de Tapas. A great area for this is La Latina, with La Taberna del Almendro, Toma Jamón, and one of our favourites, La Taberna Miranda, being great places to start. But of course you can ir de tapas in other areas of Madrid, like around Plaza de Santa Ana, Chueca, or even in your local neighbourhood.

For more on the origin of tapas and a trip to a couple of great tapas bars in Madrid, check out this Cuisine from Spain tapas podcast, and the Notes from Spain Tapas of the Week.